Zeitwinkel 082° émail grand feu

Zeitwinkel 082° émail grand feu

Zeitwinkel 082° émail grand feu

Grand feu enamelling is hard. Just ask the hundreds, thousands of discarded dials that the process produces, no matter how carefully the intricate layers upon layers of material are fired. If the heat’s not right or there’s some minute, almost imperceptible imperfection on the blank dial then that’s it, onto the rubbish pile.

It’s why grand feu is generally shorthand for classic haute horology. The difficulty in the production of the deep, lovely dials makes it the preserve of a relative handful of watchmakers – of which Zeitwinkel is one, just perhaps one that’s not as traditional as you might expect.

Zeitwinkel 082° émail grand feu

On the surface, the Zeitwinkel 082° émail grand feu is pure modern simplicity. Everything from the three-hand layout to the beautiful round case and its prominent lugs speak to the restrained minimalism the Swiss watchmaker runs through its entire collection. But that apparent simplicity is deceptive.

Generally, enamel dials are for the purists, the uber-traditional, dyed-in-the-wool haute horology maisons. Or at least, those that pretend to the station. Here Zeitwinkel has managed to make the enamel dial strikingly contemporary with the simple addition of some lovely blue numerals.

Even that though is a bit of a departure for the brand; this is their first watch with something as prosaic as Arabic numerals around the dial.  Small seconds, sure, but for hours too? That’s stretching things. Still, it’s an overdue touch (I like me some nicely typographic numerals) and shows that despite being a traditional technique, enamel isn’t necessarily as old-world as you might think.

Zeitwinkel 082° émail grand feu



The new dial deserves not just new numerals, but new hands as well, and this trio of blue steel pointers are made for purpose. The hands – including the extra-long sweep seconds – have been faceted so that, no matter where the light is coming from, they’ll shine out nicely against the white dial. It’s a subtle touch, but it makes a difference.

Underneath the whole thing is Zeitwinkel’s own in-house calibre ZW0102, a high-precision bit of watchmaking that comes in small batches from the Jura mountains. It’s decorated beautifully, with plenty of German silver and Glashutte stripes, as well as the signature three-quarter plate. The result is a solid movement with a 72-hour power reserve and an absolutely stunning finish.

Zeitwinkel in-house Swiss watch movement


Pop that movement in a sleek, minimal case, pop on the dial that perfectly survived the strenuous enamelling process, slip on the shiny new hands and you have one of the finest Zeitwinkel watches to date.